Book Errata

Errors are an unfortunate fact of life in printed knitting books. Lucky for you, the interwebs make it easy to find the corrections. Here is the DomiKNITrix errata PDF. Please print this up and keep it with your copy of the DomiKNITrix book.

If you find any errata yourself, please email me about it. It's especially helpful if you can bring me a solution along with the problem, explained as simply as possible.

Tubular cast on

Page 47
Incorrectly states to use a needle two sizes larger than the gauge needle. A SMALLER needle is recommended for tubular cast on or the edge will loosen with wear.

Thin mint Scarf

(added 12/7/2008)
Page 103
Dec rnd 1: Knit to 2 sts before end of first needle, k2 tog, turn work, SSK, knit to end--46 sts

Snood and Spiral Mesh Cap

Page 118
Snood AND mesh cap gauge is 16 sts over 4 inches at the picot edge.

The Snood is a looser style than the Spiral Mesh Cap (though not as loose as a beret) and I intended that they would tuck the model's long hair up inside the Snood, Renaissance style (or 40's style) So the Snood is looser at the top to allow room for the hair. How you choose to wear it is entirely up to you.

Mohawk hat

Page 123
Not an error, per se, but a lack of emphasis under Gusset Note. It's very important to "PICK UP ONE ST FOR EVERY TWO ROWS." Otherwise sides of hat will bulge. Not cute.

Page 124
Right gusset, Large only

Add
Row 11: Turn, p19, sl last st as if to purl, pick up and p1 st, psso--20 sts.

Note, correct to say: The SEAM is created by...

All sizes
Correct row numbers for large size now that row 11 has been added:

All Sizes:
Row 8 (8, 12): Turn, k14 (17, 19), sl last st as if to knit, pick up and k1, psso--15 (18, 20) sts.
Row 9 (9, 13): Turn, p14 (17, 19); sl last st as if to purl, pick up and p1, psso--15 (18, 20) sts.
Repeat rows 8-9 (8-9, 12-13) until... (continue as given in book)

Left gusset, prep row should read
Prep rows: Work rows 1-4 as for right gusset.

Left gusset, Large only

Add
Row 11: Turn, p19, sl last st as if to purl, pick up and p1 st, psso--20 sts.

Nape
The edge sts are handled differently on the Mohawk vs. Snow Devil and Devil hat. In section headed with "All sizes" just before "Nape"...

Insert "For the Snow Devil and Devil hat", before "place sts on holder"... the rest is ok to the end of paragraph.
Then add:
For Mohawk: place all sts from hold onto needle together.

Devil Hat/Snow Devil

Page 140
Clarify yarn description as follows:

For Devil hat: 120 yards from recommended yarn list
For Snow Devil 200 yards from yarn list
For contrast horns, reserve 9 yards per horn

Yarns: Karabella Aurora bulky merino, Muench Goa cotton/microfiber blend, Muench Aspen merino/microfiber blend, KnitPicks Sierra, or any bulky weight yarn which knits to gauge.

Page 142:
Left horn, end of paragraph should say slip back to RIGHT needle

Page 144:
Last line before Left flap should read
Rows 16-27: Rep rows 12-15 three times--55 (57, 61 sts)
Add:
Rows 28-30: Rep rows 12-14 once
Row 31: Rep row 1--55 (57, 61) sts

Left flap
Row 3: k1, p1, k to marker and drop marker, RLI, k4, k2 tog, p1, k1--21 sts
Row 5: Rep row 1--19 sts
Row 6: Rep row 2--18 sts

Page 145
Right flap
Row 3: k1, p1, SSK, k4, LLI, k11, p1, k1--21 sts

L'il Red Riding Hoodie

Page 154
Measurements for this project were omitted, though they are consistent with the sizing for all projects as given on p97.

Page 156
Right Front
Work Right side as for Left side, reversing ALL shaping, including working bust and shoulder shaping at opposite edge.

Thus, row 2 would be reversed as follows:
Row 2: k17, SSK, k3 (4,5,6,8), K2tog, k3'.

Page 157-158
Row 1: after "LLI under st just worked," PM between gusset and sleeve.

Left gusset and shoulder from row 19 had useful (info) edited out, resulting in lack of clarity.

All sizes should work each row, leaving out the specific instructions which do not apply to your size. So for example, size S will work rows 23, 25, and 27, omitting those instructions in parenthesis.

Row 19: (XS only: bind off 11 to complete gusset; all larger sizes, k11), k3, RLI, k39 (41, 43, 45, 47) [gusset 11, sleeve 43 (45, 47, 49, 51]
Row 21: (S only: bind off 11 to complete gusset, all larger sizes, KFB, k10, LLI), k3, RLI, k37 (39, 41, 43, 45, 47), LLI, k3 [gusset 13, sleeve 45 (47, 49, 51, 53)]
Row 23: (M only: bind off 13 to complete gusset; L and XL: k13 sts), k42 (44, 46, 48, 50), LLI, k3 [gusset 13, sleeve 46 (48, 50, 52, 54)]
Row 25: (L only: bind off 13 to complete gusset; XL: k13), k 48 (50, 52, 54, 56) [gusset 13, sleeve-- 46 (48, 50, 52, 54)
Row 27: (XL only: bind off 13 to complete gusset), k3, ssk, k38 (40, 42, 44, 46), LLI, k3-- 46(48, 50, 52, 54)

Page 160 - Hood (added 4/24/2007)
Row 57: stitch count should read 38 (39, 40, 43, 45).

Rows 59 and beyond: the pattern instructions for establishing the ribbing should read:

Work [p1, k1] three times, inc 1 st in purl, [k1, p1] three times more

Zipper bands
The sample shown in the book has bands knit with a slip stitch edge, though this is not directed in the pattern. It still looks great without it, so it's up to you. See p 66 for specifics on the slip stitch edge if you prefer it. Slip the first stitch of all RS rows for the right band (as worn) and the first st of all WS rows for the left band. I recommend knitting both bands at the same time, making it easier to keep track with only half as many rows to turn.

Big Bad Wolf Pullover

(added 10/12/2007)
Page 164

Yarn: 6 (6, 7, 7) skeins (125 yards each) of Lamb's Pride wool/mohair blend bulky yarn in color M01 Sandy Heather. 1 skein (125 yards each) of Lamb's Pride wool/mohair blend bulky yarn in color M04 Charcoal Heather

End of page 164:
Increase row: Cont in st st, inc before first marker and after last marker this row --39 (39, 41, 43) sts
Next 24 rows: [Work 5 rows plain, then work increase row] 4 times --47 (47, 49, 51) sts
Next 32 rows: [Work 3 rows plain, then work increase row] 8 times --63 (63, 65, 67) sts
Resume from "Knit 3 (5, 5, 7) rows..."

Bob Dobbs and Skull vests

Page 172
Underarm bind off
Round 6, at underarm bind off, after bind off 5 sts in patt, p1, k1, p1, should read: ssk, k66 (72, 76, 82), k2 tog, then continue as in pattern. Stitch count needs correction to 76 (82, 86, 92) for front only.

Back
Row 8: [p1, p1] should be corrected to [k1, p1] twice

Front
Row 1: after [p1, k1] twice, should read: ssp, p64 (70, 74, 80), p2 tog, [k1, p1] twice -- 74 (80, 84, 90) sts

After row 2 where it says rep rows 1-2, correct to say: work as established until piece measures 4" from underarm bind off; end with a WS row [Instead of rep rows 1-2 and end with row 1 which is incorrect now that we've made the changes above.]

Notes about chart placement:
For Bob Dobbs, begin the second row of chart (the pipe) 19 rows after the ribbing. The chin will follow 6 rows later.

For Skull, begin the first row of chart (the chin) 35 rows after the ribbing.

If you wish to adapt this design for intarsia, please review the Big Bad Wolf sweater pattern for technique. Intarsia was accomplished on that design by adding a seam stitch at each side before splitting the front and back at the waist, working intarsia chart back and forth on the front, then finishing the back by working flat as well. It would be equally simple use the same technique on this vest to work intarsia if that is your preference. For the skull, use a mix of intarsia and stranded knitting, since the teeth would be very annoying to do in intarsia!

Winged Heart Bralet

(added 12/7/2008)
Page 181
Row 2 and all RS rows through row 6:Knit.
Row 31: stitch count is 57 (59, 61, 63)

Sweetheart

(added 4/16/2007)
Page 190
The knits and purls have been interchanged in the second column of instructions for the left side neck shaping on page 190, which applies to sizes M, L and XL only. Second column should read as follows from the top:

NEXT ROW: Sl first 2 sts, pass first st over second st to bind off 1,
KNIT to last st, sl last st - 34 (36, 40 sts)
Rep last two rows ...
NEXT ROW: Sl first 2 sts, pass first st over second st to bind off 1,
bind off 2 more, PURL to end.
NEXT ROW: KNIT to last st, sl last st

Neck edging (added 4/21/2007)

Paragraph should end with:
"Pick up and knit k3 stitches for every 4 rows along right front neck."
Join for working in the round.

Swizzle Vest

(added 10/14/2007)
Page 204

Rows 2-4: (should appear immediately following row 1) Work ribbing in intarsia as est.

Row 6 (WS): Purl in intarsia as established until 2 sts rem, k1, p1.

Page 205

Complete pocket (added 4/17/2007)

Row 28 and all WS rows through row 42: Purl in intarsia as established until 2 sts rem, k1, p1.

Page 206
On the LEFT front

Rows 2-4: Work ribbing in intarsia as est.
Row 6: P1, k1, purl in intarsia as est.

(still on page 206)
Headers "Work right pocket opening" and "Resume right front" should be corrected to "Work LEFT pocket opening" and "Resume LEFT front"

Row 28 and all WS rows through row 44 should be clarified to: p1, k1, purl in intarsia as established.
Row 33 (missing): With MC, k5; with CC, k7; with MC, k1, RLI, k7, p1, k1--23 sts

Slink

(added 10/20/07)
Page 218
Needle size US 9 is a 5.5 mm needle, not 5 mm as printed, but whatever gets gauge is what you'll choose.

(added 3/27/2009)
It's not stated which needle size to start with, but always choose the size that gets gauge. Larger needle is used for bind off to assure loose neck edge.

(added 4/13/2007)
Page 220 (schematic)
Measurement for circumference at underarm should be 34 (35 3/4, 38, 39 1/4, 42 3/4)

Page 221 - Right Side (added 4/21/2007)
Rows 15-32: Work Stitch Pattern rows 3-6 once, then work Stitch Patt rows 1-6 twice

Page 223
Beginning of Right Sleeve, after "... pick up and k4 along bottom of armhole, then 26 (28, 28, 28, 30) sts along ..." should then say: back armhole edge, then pick up and knit 27 (29, 29, 29, 31) sts along front armhole, ending at last bound off st.

Rows 5, 9, 13, and 17: p2 tog should be corrected to SSP.

City Coat

Note on gauge: Gauge is intentionally tight, but NOT as tight as you might think based on the yarn info in the book. Allow me to explain:

For Aspen, the ball band really does say 2.5 sts to the inch (point being that technically, this is not an error, but is misleading, read on).

My experience with Aspen is that 2.5 sts/inch is a ridiculous loose gauge for it. It really knits up closer to 3.5 stitches to the inch if a size 10 needle is used and makes a nice normal fabric at that gauge. For example I've substituted Aspen in my Valentine heart pattern and it works perfectly at that gauge.

So please choose a yarn that shows 3.5 stitches to the inch on the band, not 2.5. Still, buy one ball and make sure the gauge works before you go whole hog on your yarn buy.

To make this coat, you will knit it at 3.75 sts/inch which is tighter than 3.5, but I think it would be humanly impossible to knit most 2.5 sts/inch gauge yarns to make this coat if you plan to substitute yarn.

Page 229
Front Neck Shaping (added 12/7/2008)
Next 4 RS rows: do as written
WS rows: knit even

Elfin Bride and Gothlet

Page numbers refer to printed pattern version 2-2007, not page from book. These errata are corrected in later versions.

Page 9 - Right Upper Sleeve (added 5/5/2007)
Work RIGHT sleeve to elbow same as LEFT.

Page 10 - Base triangle
Short row 5: k7, yo, k1, yo, k9, wrap, turn

Page 11 - Tail (added 4/21/2007)
Rows 3 and 5: Rep row 1--45 sts

Row 7: K2, RLI, k19, [yo, k1] 3 times, yo, k to marker, LLI, k2 -- 51 sts.

Page 12
Row 45:
K2, RLI, k to marker, (do not k2 tog) sl marker, yo, [Rt. Lace] 3 times, k3, sl2-k1-psso, k2, LLI, [yo, k1] 3 times, yo, RLI, k2, sl2-k1-psso, k3, [Lt. Lace] 3 times, yo, (do not ssk) k to marker, LLI, k2--135 sts
Row 47: K2, RLI, k to 2 sts before marker, k2 tog, sl marker, yo,
[Rt Lace] 4 times, k3 [Lt Lace] 4 times, yo, SSK, k to marker, LLI, k2 -- 137

Page 15 -- top left corner (row numbers clarified 10/14/2007)
Next WS row: P (46, 46, 46, 49, 52), PM wrap, turn
RS rows: Knit, working lace patt as established at end of row
WS rows: P until 3 sts rem before marker, PM, wrap, turn.
Rep until no sts rem before lace patt
Next row (RS): yo, k3, sl2-k1-psso, k3, yo, k7
Last row (WS):

Right Side Back to Front (clarified 10/14/2007)
There will be 33 resting sts on right side of CB. When working ssk below, second stitch is always from FR. For all but row 1, the second stitch of ssk will have been wrapped on previous RS row.

With RS up and needles ready to work with 3 sts right of the marker between completed center back (CB) and remainder of right foundation row (FR), anchor new yarn.

Ptfl = Inserting needle from back to front, purl through front loop while twisting the st

Short row 1 (RS): K2, PM, ssk and drop marker, wrap next FR st, turn
Short row 2: P7, wrap, turn
Rem RS short rows: Knit to marker and sl, ssk, wrap next FR st, turn.